Back again to continue my robe a la francaise project, aka: how to reuse curtains (ugly curtains). In my last post, I went over hand sewing and embroidering an 18th century shift and pocket. This post will cover the completion of the underpinnings for my gown: the stays, under-petticoat, and panniers.
Material and Method
For this portion of the project, I used a mix of curtain lining material, stash fabric, and new materials.
Stays: I opted not only for the Redthreaded pattern, but also for their material kit. In addition, I added a fashion fabric layer that was left-over cotton upholstery fabric I had in my stash from a screen-covering project I did for my parents.
I chose to buy the kit for a few reasons. First, while I’m sure I could find materials cheaper if I bought them myself, I am still a beginner, and wasn’t sure what certain materials were/why you use them. For example, what was the fundamental difference between cotton twill and cotton coutil? What weight would I be looking for? What was the best boning material? I had no experience with any of it and decided that my first attempt would have pre-selected materials that I could learn from. I definitely learned! I now have some things I would actually change next time and I feel much more comfortable with what I am looking for in the future.
Under-Petticoat: I followed the Burnley and Trowbridge Sew-Along and Under-Petticoat Hack, using a large piece of curtain lining and some cotton tape.
Panniers: I used a Simplicity/American Duchess pattern. The base of the garment is curtain lining, coupled with some cotton tape from Burnley and Trowbridge and reed boning I purchased from corsetmaking.com.
Construction
Stays
I was hands-down the most nervous to make the stays (even more so than I am to make the actual gown). For anyone putting off making stays for similar reasons, I highly recommend buying a pattern and/or kit. It takes the mystery out of the process and makes it slightly less daunting. As I mentioned earlier, I made Redthreaded’s 1780’s front-lacing stays. While I was shooting for my gown to hit around the 1770’s I wanted something front lacing so I could manage it myself with an understandable pattern so settled on this.
The Redthreaded pattern was easy to follow and the kit came well stocked. However, if I make another pair of stays I will be sizing and cutting my own boning. The steel bones provided in the kit were great but not quite the right size for the length of channels I ended up with.
One challenge of the stays was that I had to figure out how to attach the grommets. The grommet setter I bought was unable to penetrate all three layers of fabric so instead I punched a hole with an awl and then opened up the hole little by little with scissors. I also changed the lacing system to be spiral (more historically accurate) by alternating the holes on each side.
Under-Petticoat
I used the Petticoat Sew-Along from Burnley and Trowbridge, as well as their Under-Petticoat Hack video. I used the hem that already existed on the curtain lining to cut out some work, and hand-sewed the rest of it. I LOVE the Burnley and Trowbridge tutorials. They are fun and easy to understand and I highly recommend them. I’ve already got my eye on the Bedgown project in the future. My nephew-dog, Atticus, stayed with me during this process and was a great help.
Panniers
Unlike the shift and petticoat, the panniers were a mix of machine and hand-sewing. I followed the rule that seams were machine stitched but finished by hand with a hem stitch. I could have hand-stitched everything, but to be completely honest, by this time I had grown impatient to finish.
The pannier construction also gave me experience with constructing boning channels with a different method from that used for the stays. The general process for the boning was to sew cotton tape channels on the outside, cut the reed boning to size, sand them, and slide them into place. The panniers were actually pretty quick and, while they look complicated, were easy to assemble.
Getting Dressed
Note: There are variations everywhere on the order etc. to put on all the undergarments. For the sake of sanity I just chose this American Duchess Video as a reference.
Step 1 – Shift
First, I put on my shift, the construction of which I featured in my last post. I may have to lower the neckline a bit so it doesn’t show under the gown, but overall I love how this turned out.
Step 2 – Under-Petticoat
Next, you are supposed to put on your under-petticoat, but I messed up the order in these pictures and put on my stays first. However, I managed to tuck them in so they looked alright. My under-petticoat has one opening and is tied in the back.
Step 3 – Stays
The third step is putting on the stays. I had to use a tutorial to learn how to spiral lace them. It is a bit of a process to tighten them sufficiently to provide enough bust support, but once you get them situated they are quite comfortable.
Step 4 – Pocket
Now time for my pocket from Part 1! I’m so proud of the embroidery. This is simply tied at the waist over the stays.
Step 5 – Panniers
Lastly are the panniers. You tie them over the pocket (there is a slit at the top of the hoops through which you can reach into the pocket). There are two ties, on at the waist and another around the thighs to keep the hoops in place. I tried to practice sitting in them which was a bit weird but definitely doable.
Final Thoughts
I’ve learned so much so far and am loving the result. I’m definitely starting to wish I had some sort of event to wear this to when complete. If there are any historical costumers in the Pittsburgh area that know of any events coming up, let me know 🙂
Up Next
Now on to the main event: the gown! I’ve got to say I still have no clue how this fabric is going to work out. Stay tuned to find out!
1 comment
Amazing! I love how the pocket is the only real color so far. Cannot wait to see the
actual dress.